From the Apache Gold Resort we drove east in the rain to
Safford, checked into the motel, drove out of town to turn in the U-Haul truck,
and rode back to Safford, narrowly avoiding the rain.
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Hotel Simpson, Duncan, AZ |
We did not attempt the ride up to Silver City (too far, too
much climbing, too cold, strong possibility of snow, and winter days to short). Instead we left the Adventure Cycling route
and headed south on route 70 toward Lordsburg. The ride was smooth, the traffic
light and the shoulders were generally good.
The ride took us through more high desert, which became greener as we
moved further southeast. We stopped in
Duncan for the night. Duncan may have
been a prosperous stop over before the interstates were built but it is now
clearly in decline. The accommodations at the B & B where we stayed, the
Simpson Hotel, were quaint and charming.
The couple running the B & B had spent the previous 5 years
restoring the 100 year old building, which had been a hotel, a restaurant, and
electric company office and a bar. The
pictures below include the parlor and the exterior of the building. Based on the forecast for heavy rain on
Saturday, we stayed an extra day at the B & B in Duncan relaxing in the
parlor with a lovely fire.
|
Parlor, Simpson Hotel |
|
Mining Truck Bed |
The road from Duncan to Lordsburg was straight, flat, and a
bit boring. More high desert with Yuccas
replacing the cactus. Along the route we
saw two huge truck beds parked by the side of the road. When we checked into the motel in Lordsburg,
the people in the next to rooms were driving the pilot cars for these extra
wide truck beds from Mexico, taking them to a mine in Glamis, CA, where they
would be mated with the truck chassis from Caterpillar in Illinois, and giant
tires from somewhere in the south. Some
of these truck beds hold up to 300 tons.
|
Mountains off Road to Lordsburg |
|
Gila Cliff Dwellings |
Monday Enterprise delivered a rental car to our motel and we
drove to Silver City and into the Gila Wilderness area to visit the Gila Cliff
Dwellings. The drive from Silver City
took almost two hours on winding mountain roads through Ponderosa and Pinion
forests. The scenery was
spectacular. It started raining heavily
just as we completed the half mile climb to the cliff dwellings. We were able to refuge in the caves and were
just in time for a guided tour of the caves.
The dwellings were only inhabited for a generation in the 1300s. Archeologists suspect that the inhabitants
came to the caves because of a severe drought, which lasted 30 years. The Gila River flows about a half mile from
the cliff dwellings. It is unclear why
the inhabitants abandoned the cliff dwellings.
The caves protected the dwellings from the weather but the roofs were
burned in the late 1800s, probably by local ranchers.
|
View from Gila Cliff Dwelling |
|
Gila River |
|
The Joys of Winter Riding |
After leaving the cliff dwelling, we encounter heavy snow at
the higher elevations, making the driving very hazardous. We briefly drove through the historic
district of Silver City but decided to get out of the mountains ASAP and drove
to Lordsburg for dinner. The next
morning we woke up to an inch or two of snow on the ground but the pavement in
general was clear. Given the predicted
25 to 30 mile per hour tail winds, we packed up the bike and headed east to
Deming along Interstate 10. The roadway
was clear but sections of the shoulder had an inch of snow, fortunately no ice
under the snow. The wind blew us toward
Deming at 20 to 25 miles per hour with very little pedaling. Needless to say, if we had been heading west,
we would have stayed in the motel.
Everything went great until we had two flats within 10 miles of
Deming. Changing the flats was a
challenge in the high winds and 40°F.
|
Southern New Mexico or the Arctic? |
|
Carolyn Crossing the Continental Divide |
The next day we rode from Deming to Las Cruces. The winds were lower but still behind
us. Unfortunately we had three more
flats within 10 miles of Deming, two from steel belted radial debris and one
from a piece of steel the size of a small knife. On Thursday we restocked our supply of tubes
and tires in Las Cruces and are ready to head to El Paso Friday.
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